August 9, 2026 · Berlin

Our First Two Weeks

The Brandenburg Gate under a clear blue sky, the quadriga on top, seen from Pariser Platz

Jet lag was no match for our excitement, and our first full day started with a trip downtown! We saw the U.S. Embassy, which sits next to both the Brandenburg Gate and the Holocaust Memorial. From the south you can see the embassy, the Memorial, and the Reichstag in the same view.

The view from inside the Holocaust Memorial: rows of concrete stelae, with the U.S. Embassy at right and the Reichstag dome rising behind the trees — The embassy, the Memorial, and the Reichstag in one view

The next day, George and I went to the zoo and had a total blast. It sits right next to the Tiergarten, and as much as I love the DC zoo, this one impressed me even more. George enjoyed ice cream while checking out the animals on what was probably a day too cold for that kind of snack!

George in his stroller at the zoo, a pretzel in both hands, with a tray of bratwurst and currywurst on the table — Zoo lunch

While Liza worked, George and I explored the city a great deal. We went to Kreuzberg, Schöneberg, and Prenzlauer Berg. We rode the bus and the U and S Bahn trains, which George loved!

A selfie on the train: George and me in sunglasses, both grinning

We went to some amazing parks, including Viktoriapark in Kreuzberg, where we enjoyed a stop at Golgatha Biergarten. Georgie asked the bartender for a “Georgie beer,” which is sparkling water. The guy feels right at home already!

The bronze fountain statue and pond below the waterfall in Viktoriapark, ducks resting on the bank

Georgie grinning in his stroller at Golgatha Biergarten, his sparkling water in hand beside my Spaten stein — The first Georgie beer

We also enjoyed time at the fairytale playground in Heinrich-Lassen-Park in Schöneberg, a full wooden castle with towers, slides, and tunnels.

George at the gate of the fairytale playground in Heinrich-Lassen-Park, castle towers and slides rising behind the fence

We had some really wonderful bakeries along the way. Johann Bäckerei and Gorilla Bäckerei both made pain au chocolat that George loved a ton.

George eating a pain au chocolat in his stroller behind a Johann Bäckerei paper bag — Johann Bäckerei, Schöneberg

George in his pink bike helmet outside Gorilla Bäckerei, croissant in hand — Gorilla Bäckerei

Another, in Kreuzberg, is Albatross. This place also had wonderful coffee, and I crushed an Americano as we took down the neighborhood and canals on foot. Zeit für Brot has multiple locations, and we visited the one in Schöneberg on Akazienstraße. Shouldn’t be missed!

Exploring our neighborhood has been really fun. Grunewald charms as a forest, and Frank and I explore it daily.

A selfie on my daily walk through Grunewald, tall pines rising along the trail behind me — The daily walk

The forest also holds multiple restaurants with biergartens and excellent food. 12 Apostoli serves pizza and beer inside a gorgeous castle-like building and provides outdoor seating with a playground and a dog-friendly environment.

The castle-like building of 12 Apostoli, string lights strung over the biergarten tables behind a wooden fence — 12 Apostoli, in the forest

Châlet Suisse doubles as a biergarten and an upscale restaurant. We had a date night here and loved it!

The Châlet Suisse sign glowing at the biergarten entrance, the wooden chalet among the Grunewald trees — Date night at Châlet Suisse

Two weeks in, George orders his own drinks, the team knows its bakery route, and the forest is a short walk away. If you come visit, the tour is ready and the first Georgie beer is on us!

George at the edge of a splash fountain in a glass-walled plaza downtown, a yellow smiley-face ball floating in the water

George in a hooded sweatshirt beside his stroller at the zoo, a gorilla sitting behind the glass of its enclosure

A tiger resting among the bamboo of its enclosure at the zoo, seen through the wire fence

George buckled into his stroller on the bus, snack pouch in hand

George and me on the U-Bahn, the Brandenburg Gate pattern printed on the windows behind us

A tree-lined Berlin street seen from the top deck of the bus

A leafy corner in Prenzlauer Berg: sidewalk cafe tables under plane trees, bikes and parked cars along the street

A domed corner building in Schöneberg with a kiosk and bike shop at street level

George climbing a wooden balance ramp on a sandy playground in Viktoriapark

The open meadow in Viktoriapark near Golgatha, families walking and riding along the path

The wooden castle towers and birdhouse turrets of the fairytale playground

George crawling through the wire-mesh tunnel that bridges two castle towers at the fairytale playground

George at a sidewalk table with a berry-topped tart and a glass of sparkling water — A tart stop in Schöneberg

The vaulted dining room at 12 Apostoli, George at our table beneath stone columns draped in greenery

George, Liza, and Apu at the table at 12 Apostoli, three pizzas between them

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